Deer Springs to Suicide Rock Trail Report: Memories Renewed

~7 miles RT

Moderate Difficulty

1850 Elevation gain/loss

There are views, trees and trails that exist in a hiker's memory forever. It is difficult to describe to someone who may not frequent the outdoors or backcountry, but for many who seek out dirt paths and open skies, these places and things have a special hold on us. Not unlike a special song that resides in the soundtrack of a person's life, it is possible for a hiker to recall with extreme clarity when, where and with who he or she was with on a particular trek.  All it takes is a particular vista or bird song or vanilla-scent pine bark or the taste of dust on your tongue or the weight of a pack to bring all of it into focus.

For me, those moments are deeply rooted in the San Jacinto mountains. Located due west of Palm Springs, it was in those mountains and on those switchbacks where I learned a great deal about the wilderness, and about myself. For me, these rugged peaks are personal touchstones for so much of my life.

John Muir called the San Jacintos Southern California's own "range of light" since they are very similar in geology, climate, appearance and altitude to the Sierras. In fact the same forces that created it's northern cousins are responsible for the San Jacinto wilderness area.

My first excursion into this area was at age 13 climbing the Devil's Slide Trail to Skunk Cabbage Meadow. A relatively short hike but as anyone who's hiked the Devil's Slide, the 2.5 mile climb from Humber Park to the Saddle is notoriously steep for a beginning hiker and due to its popularity, a bit over-loved.

Other than the Palm Springs Tram, it is generally accepted as the most popular and fastest way to the higher elevations and hanging valleys that rest between San Jacinto and Tahquitz peaks. I've lost count on how many times I've been on that trail, but suffice to say it became as familiar as an old boot and eventually, about as exciting.

It certainly isn't the only way up, and though at one time I could easily boast that I had hiked every trail in the system in the area, there was one exception, the Deer Springs trail. That is no longer the case and I truly regret for not correcting that experience gap many years ago. Deer Springs is a sweetheart of a trail and highly recommended for anyone visiting and hiking the Idyllwild area.

From Deer Springs, one has access to the entirety of what these mountains have to offer, including San Jacinto peak, Round Valley and and all the rest without having to deal with an overly crowded parking area, heart breaking hiker limits or endless switchbacks that is the hallmark of Devil's Slide. For sure, it takes a few more steps to gain altitude, but the more moderate elevation gain allows a hiker to perhaps enjoy the scenery a bit more.

Last October was my first time on the trail with an inaugural trek to Suicide Rock. It occurred to me that the last time I had even visited Suicide Rock was via a face climb. But that was 35 years and 35 pounds ago. I prefer walking sticks to carabiners these days.  Accessing the top of Suicide Rock via this route was just as satisfying as the face climb done so long ago.

The trailhead is located directly across the street from the San Jacinto Nature Center, about a mile north of the small mountain community of Idyllwild. A turnout serves as the parking area with the trail leading quickly away from the adjacent highway noise. Follow the wide and well marked trail for about .5 miles after which you'll enter the San Jacinto Wilderness. You'll need a wilderness permit to enter the area from that point on. Unlike the Devil's Slide trail, you'll have no problem getting a permit for this trailhead at the ranger's station in Idyllwild the day before or even the morning of your hike.  The only restriction is that your group is no larger than 12 hikers per permit.

The trail is a steady but manageable climb from 5,600 feet to an eventual 7,450 elevation on top of Suicide Rock. Oaks and Mazanita will give way to magnificent Incense Cedar and Maidenhair Ferns as you near the Suicide Rock Junction 2.25 miles from the starting point.

Follow the signs to Suicide Rock another 1.25 miles on. A left turn at the junction leads to San Jacinto peak, but I'll leave that destination for another day.

Many of the trail guides you'll read will tell you that after the steady climb to the junction, the trail flattens and the mileage is right at or just below a mile to the Rock. Don't believe it. The trail continues to climb, albeit rolling but steep in parts, for the longest mile in hiking history. In other words, if you think the hard part of the hike is over when you reach the junction, it's not. Expect more of the same that you've already hiked to this point and you won't be too surprised or discouraged with the remaining section of trail.

The views from Suicide are spectacular. It affords a clear view of Tahquitz Rock, the town of Idyllwild and miles of flatland laying westerly towards the ocean. There are plenty of places on bare, flat rock, exposed to the sky, perfectly suited for gazing heavenly or spreading out a lunch. It's advised to be on the lookout for rattlers nesting in wide cracks on top of the bald, however. On the day we visited, a total of 6 of the snakes were spied, two of them coiled together and as large as a fire hose. They were content to let us visitors to have our time taking all of it in before returning the way you came for a nearly 7 mile round trip hike in Southern California's own alpine ruggedness.

The Deer Springs Trail is highly recommended as a convenient and lovely access to the wonderful peaks and valleys above Idyllwild. Don't pass it up just because it may add a mile or two to your destination. The extra trail time is well worth it.

Amazingly detailed plant guide following the entire trail: Deer Springs Plant Guide

Park Guide and Permit Information: San Jacinto State Park Guide

Aliso and Wood Canyons: A hike in 3 acts

"Aliso and Wood Canyons Loop"
11 Mile loop hike

900' Elevation gain/loss

Moderately Strenuous

The OC Park system should be mighty proud because they are mighty clever. No doubt by design, many of the system’s wilderness areas are truly citadels of open and very wild spaces bumping up to the backyards of expansive and expensive housing developments. The Aliso and Wood Canyons Wilderness Park is no exception and may indeed be the prototype for such planning.

The park with its rambling name is almost 4,000 acres of former Spanish land grant ranchos hosting rolling hills, flat meadows and lush canyons and is positioned within long-walking distance from the Pacific Ocean as it overlooks the town city of Laguna Beach. What also distinguishes this park from many of its local cousins is its offer of a hike longer than just a few miles.  But like any in the park, the first and third acts of these hikes are at best, a dull production. However the long second act more than makes up for that blandness.

Begin your hike at the parking lot of the Visitor Center that is worth a quick peek.  Be sure to check out the fossils found in the sandstone and limestone formations that exist in the park. There’s a $3.00 parking fee, payable with a credit card. Portable toilets with hand washing facilities are adjacent to the lot. There may be running water for drinking somewhere, but I didn’t see any.

Just past the Center is the paved trailhead leading to the mouth of Aliso Canyon along Aliso Creek Trail.  The paved road is actually an access for the Also Water Management Agency and as such is a private road. Its open all weekend but reportedly there have been times when its closed during the week because of work being done on the parallel running creek. This portion, or first act, of the hike is unremarkable. Families with strollers or children on bicycles will find the wide, flat road useful and pleasant to enjoy but for the hiker or mountain biker, its just whatcha gotta do to get to the good stuff.

The good stuff lies just 1.5 miles beyond the parking lot trailhead at the clearly marked trailhead for Wood Canyon Trail.  I know of some hikers who will ride their bikes to this junction and lock them up on the handy bike rack located there.  Portable toilets are also located here, but again, no running water.

Follow Wood Canyon north for about .75 miles to the Dripping Cave junction which will be on your left and clearly marked like all of the trails at the park. It’s a short jaunt to the cave that you’ll find just beyond a wooden footbridge. 

SIDE TRAIL: Before reaching Dripping Cave, you’ll see signs leading to Cave Rock, a substantial limestone formation eroded by wind and water to form several small caves. You’ll be able to see the rock if you stay on the main trail so there’s no real need to take the side trail unless you really want to.

After reading about how the cave was the supposed hideout of 19^th century bandits, return towards the footbridge but instead of crossing it, veer to the left (north) trail that leads toward Mathis Canyon.  The trail becomes a bit steep for about 150 yards before it drops down again into a lovely meadow residing in the bottom of Mathis Canyon.  Before reaching the meadow, you’ll see even more caves as you walk beneath a cool oak canopy.  After crossing the eastern edge of this canyon meadow, you’ll intersect with Mathis Canyon Trail.  This is the last shade you’ll have for a while and the hike becomes much more challenging. 

SIDE TRAIL: Before the climb, note the side trail to Oak Grove. Though overlooked by most, the grove resides in a narrow ravine that offers a bit of solitude from the rest of the folks on the trails. Deep and shady, I consider this a destination for a shorter, up-and-back 6-mile hike.  The adjacent rock formations also make it particularly worthwhile.

Mathis Canyon Trail provides a 550’ elevation gain in approximately 1.25 miles. It’s steep with few level, catch-your-breath sections until near the very end of the climb to the West Ridge Trail. At the junction of Mathis and West Ridge, turn right (north) on the wide fire road trail. Expect lots of other folks to also be there, many of whom started at the Alta Laguna Park in Laguna Beach.

The undulating ridge is a welcome walk after the climb to reach it. The views and breezes up there contain elements of the nearby ocean making it very pleasant.  Continue north on the ridge past the cell phone towers and water tank until you reach the Lynx trail on your right.  Take a moment to sit on the convenient rock at this junction to retie your shoes before making the descent back into Wood Canyon.  You’re about at the halfway mark of the 11 miles at this point. Parts of this downhill, single-track trail are steep and slick. Since you may also encounter bicyclists on this trail, be extra cautious.

At the bottom, you’ll intersect with Wood Canyon Trail and a right turn will bring you back to your starting point. If you brought a snack or a lunch, I’d find a shady spot here. There’s no more climbing to do, a sweet stream whispers nearby and there's lots of shade from the giant, spreading oaks found in the canyon. The entire scene makes for a nice place to regroup your thoughts, cool off from the exposed ridge and loosen up those boots if you like.

SIDE TRAIL: Hiking-only trails (Wood Creek Trail and Coyote Run Trail) parallel the main, shared use Wood Canyon trail. Signs show how to access them from Wood Canyon.  The upside of using these trails is that you won’t be dodging bikers but the downside is that you may find the creek a bit further away at times and perhaps a little less shade is offered, especially on Coyote Run.

Follow the Wood Canyon Trail southeast back towards Aliso Canyon and eventually the parking lot from where you started. The trail follows along Wood Creek that was still flowing with an impressive amount of water in August. You’ll cross the stream three times before once again reaching the Dripping Cave trail junction.  From there, your hike enters its third and final act as you rejoin the paved water management access road.  It’s during this last 1.5 miles that I’ll plug in my Nano and unwind as I listen to some nice music and soften my pace before reaching my car to drive home.

A tip of my Tilley hat once again to the OC Parks system.  Aliso and Wood Canyons Wilderness Park did what it was designed to do; provide me with an open sky and miles to hike beneath it without having to travel far to reach it all.

Helpful Links:

OC Parks Official Page

Trail Map: Aliso and Wood Canyons

Hike OC: A local hiking guide to the area

Whiting Ranch; Red Rock, Blackened Oak.

The best way to appreciate nearby trails and countryside is to view it all as a tourist would. You’re likely to discover surprising new things and places about your local environs that you might’ve missed otherwise.


There are places in Orange County that, if you squinted and shielded your eyes, closely resemble the sandstone cliffs in southern Utah or parts of Arizona. Such is the case with Whiting Ranch in Orange County, California.
   

Okay, so they’re not quite as impressive, grand or awe inspiring as Zion, Sedona or Moab but if you live in southern California, there are places of exquisite geological beauty practically in your back yard. If you know where to look.

The Orange County Wilderness Park area known as Limestone Canyon/Whiting Ranch is comprised of over 4,000 acres of rugged hillsides, narrow canyons and unique rock formations in the foothills east of the OC suburban sprawl. Narrow tentacles of the park lay between housing developments and immediately adjacent to shopping centers and freeways creating an almost surreal experience for the hiker or mountain biker. Within 10 minutes of turning your back to a busy McDonald’s and Target, you’ll find yourself walking under the canopy of centuries old oaks and shady sycamores with only a hint of the city heard on the wind.

One of the more popular hikes is to visit the Red Rock Canyon. Beginning on the Borrego Trail, this 5-mile up and back hike allows you to experience a few of the rare sandstone cliffs that can be found in the county. The trailhead begins literally adjacent to a large shopping center and winds its way through a canyon between two ridges filled with expansive home sites. For the first ¾ mile, you’ll catch glimpses of those homes, many of which were damaged by the 2007 wildfire that nearly decimated large sections of the park.

 Evidence of the fire is clearly seen with the presence of blackened oaks and thick layers of hardened ash still found in the soil throughout this portion of the park. The canyon and its oaks are recovering in remarkable fashion and as many naturalists will attest, such events are beneficial to the long term health of this wilderness.

The hike to Red Rock Canyon is moderately easy and about half of it is in the shade. As you leave the Portola Parkway parking lot ($3.00 fee) the trail immediately leads you into a riparian environment that is surprisingly lush for what is generally considered a very dry wilderness. You'll immediately be struck with the sight of blackened oaks, now festooned with new, green leaves and fresh branches as the trees attempt to reclaim their former stateliness. Before a mile has been traveled, an oak flat welcomes you to take in the increasing canopy and the view of a cave on the east wall of the Borrego Canyon trail. Though inviting, I'd recommend skipping it since it is well protected by a thick, moist green moat of poison oak.

The trail continues northeasterly as it leaves the shady oaks through often dry sandy washes bordered by chaparral and low scrub. At about 2 miles, the Borrego Trail junctions with the Cattle Pond and Mustard Road trails. Watch the trail markers carefully to find the Red Rock trail that parallels Mustard Road. This single track trail is located just beyond a picnic table equipped rest area and easy to miss. If you come to the Billy Goat trail junction, you've gone too far.

Follow the narrow Red Rock trail as it continues north towards a number of sandstone cliffs found at the end of another shadeless sandy wash. Anticipate being a little wowed when the cliffs are encountered for the first time. It will be difficult to imagine that you're in the same county as the Real Housewives, Disneyland and vast expanses of bedroom communities, condos and strip malls.

Please be respectful of these fragile formations and don't climb the cliff walls. Take some photos, enjoy a handful of trailmix and pick up the trash left by the guy who visited an hour before you. This kind of hiking destination demands a little extra effort to protect and maintain. Once you've taken in the unique vibe of the place, return the way you came to your car or make a left at the Mustard Road trail junction to explore more of the wilderness park.

When I hike this fun trail, I'm reminded how fortunate I am to have such an interesting place right down the road a bit, just past the Walmart and Arco station. If you live in the area, don't miss it and if you've got visitors from out of town anxious to visit the land of the Mouse, convince them that Mickey will wait and bring them here first.

The links below will lead you to a trail map and to the OC Parks website relating to this park.  Also note the link to flickr pages of the album of my photos of the park.

Whiting Ranch Trail Map

OC Parks: Whiting Ranch

Whiting Ranch Photo Album; Flickr