Aliso and Wood Canyons: A hike in 3 acts

"Aliso and Wood Canyons Loop"
11 Mile loop hike

900' Elevation gain/loss

Moderately Strenuous

The OC Park system should be mighty proud because they are mighty clever. No doubt by design, many of the system’s wilderness areas are truly citadels of open and very wild spaces bumping up to the backyards of expansive and expensive housing developments. The Aliso and Wood Canyons Wilderness Park is no exception and may indeed be the prototype for such planning.

The park with its rambling name is almost 4,000 acres of former Spanish land grant ranchos hosting rolling hills, flat meadows and lush canyons and is positioned within long-walking distance from the Pacific Ocean as it overlooks the town city of Laguna Beach. What also distinguishes this park from many of its local cousins is its offer of a hike longer than just a few miles.  But like any in the park, the first and third acts of these hikes are at best, a dull production. However the long second act more than makes up for that blandness.

Begin your hike at the parking lot of the Visitor Center that is worth a quick peek.  Be sure to check out the fossils found in the sandstone and limestone formations that exist in the park. There’s a $3.00 parking fee, payable with a credit card. Portable toilets with hand washing facilities are adjacent to the lot. There may be running water for drinking somewhere, but I didn’t see any.

Just past the Center is the paved trailhead leading to the mouth of Aliso Canyon along Aliso Creek Trail.  The paved road is actually an access for the Also Water Management Agency and as such is a private road. Its open all weekend but reportedly there have been times when its closed during the week because of work being done on the parallel running creek. This portion, or first act, of the hike is unremarkable. Families with strollers or children on bicycles will find the wide, flat road useful and pleasant to enjoy but for the hiker or mountain biker, its just whatcha gotta do to get to the good stuff.

The good stuff lies just 1.5 miles beyond the parking lot trailhead at the clearly marked trailhead for Wood Canyon Trail.  I know of some hikers who will ride their bikes to this junction and lock them up on the handy bike rack located there.  Portable toilets are also located here, but again, no running water.

Follow Wood Canyon north for about .75 miles to the Dripping Cave junction which will be on your left and clearly marked like all of the trails at the park. It’s a short jaunt to the cave that you’ll find just beyond a wooden footbridge. 

SIDE TRAIL: Before reaching Dripping Cave, you’ll see signs leading to Cave Rock, a substantial limestone formation eroded by wind and water to form several small caves. You’ll be able to see the rock if you stay on the main trail so there’s no real need to take the side trail unless you really want to.

After reading about how the cave was the supposed hideout of 19^th century bandits, return towards the footbridge but instead of crossing it, veer to the left (north) trail that leads toward Mathis Canyon.  The trail becomes a bit steep for about 150 yards before it drops down again into a lovely meadow residing in the bottom of Mathis Canyon.  Before reaching the meadow, you’ll see even more caves as you walk beneath a cool oak canopy.  After crossing the eastern edge of this canyon meadow, you’ll intersect with Mathis Canyon Trail.  This is the last shade you’ll have for a while and the hike becomes much more challenging. 

SIDE TRAIL: Before the climb, note the side trail to Oak Grove. Though overlooked by most, the grove resides in a narrow ravine that offers a bit of solitude from the rest of the folks on the trails. Deep and shady, I consider this a destination for a shorter, up-and-back 6-mile hike.  The adjacent rock formations also make it particularly worthwhile.

Mathis Canyon Trail provides a 550’ elevation gain in approximately 1.25 miles. It’s steep with few level, catch-your-breath sections until near the very end of the climb to the West Ridge Trail. At the junction of Mathis and West Ridge, turn right (north) on the wide fire road trail. Expect lots of other folks to also be there, many of whom started at the Alta Laguna Park in Laguna Beach.

The undulating ridge is a welcome walk after the climb to reach it. The views and breezes up there contain elements of the nearby ocean making it very pleasant.  Continue north on the ridge past the cell phone towers and water tank until you reach the Lynx trail on your right.  Take a moment to sit on the convenient rock at this junction to retie your shoes before making the descent back into Wood Canyon.  You’re about at the halfway mark of the 11 miles at this point. Parts of this downhill, single-track trail are steep and slick. Since you may also encounter bicyclists on this trail, be extra cautious.

At the bottom, you’ll intersect with Wood Canyon Trail and a right turn will bring you back to your starting point. If you brought a snack or a lunch, I’d find a shady spot here. There’s no more climbing to do, a sweet stream whispers nearby and there's lots of shade from the giant, spreading oaks found in the canyon. The entire scene makes for a nice place to regroup your thoughts, cool off from the exposed ridge and loosen up those boots if you like.

SIDE TRAIL: Hiking-only trails (Wood Creek Trail and Coyote Run Trail) parallel the main, shared use Wood Canyon trail. Signs show how to access them from Wood Canyon.  The upside of using these trails is that you won’t be dodging bikers but the downside is that you may find the creek a bit further away at times and perhaps a little less shade is offered, especially on Coyote Run.

Follow the Wood Canyon Trail southeast back towards Aliso Canyon and eventually the parking lot from where you started. The trail follows along Wood Creek that was still flowing with an impressive amount of water in August. You’ll cross the stream three times before once again reaching the Dripping Cave trail junction.  From there, your hike enters its third and final act as you rejoin the paved water management access road.  It’s during this last 1.5 miles that I’ll plug in my Nano and unwind as I listen to some nice music and soften my pace before reaching my car to drive home.

A tip of my Tilley hat once again to the OC Parks system.  Aliso and Wood Canyons Wilderness Park did what it was designed to do; provide me with an open sky and miles to hike beneath it without having to travel far to reach it all.

Helpful Links:

OC Parks Official Page

Trail Map: Aliso and Wood Canyons

Hike OC: A local hiking guide to the area

Whiting Ranch; Red Rock, Blackened Oak.

The best way to appreciate nearby trails and countryside is to view it all as a tourist would. You’re likely to discover surprising new things and places about your local environs that you might’ve missed otherwise.


There are places in Orange County that, if you squinted and shielded your eyes, closely resemble the sandstone cliffs in southern Utah or parts of Arizona. Such is the case with Whiting Ranch in Orange County, California.
   

Okay, so they’re not quite as impressive, grand or awe inspiring as Zion, Sedona or Moab but if you live in southern California, there are places of exquisite geological beauty practically in your back yard. If you know where to look.

The Orange County Wilderness Park area known as Limestone Canyon/Whiting Ranch is comprised of over 4,000 acres of rugged hillsides, narrow canyons and unique rock formations in the foothills east of the OC suburban sprawl. Narrow tentacles of the park lay between housing developments and immediately adjacent to shopping centers and freeways creating an almost surreal experience for the hiker or mountain biker. Within 10 minutes of turning your back to a busy McDonald’s and Target, you’ll find yourself walking under the canopy of centuries old oaks and shady sycamores with only a hint of the city heard on the wind.

One of the more popular hikes is to visit the Red Rock Canyon. Beginning on the Borrego Trail, this 5-mile up and back hike allows you to experience a few of the rare sandstone cliffs that can be found in the county. The trailhead begins literally adjacent to a large shopping center and winds its way through a canyon between two ridges filled with expansive home sites. For the first ¾ mile, you’ll catch glimpses of those homes, many of which were damaged by the 2007 wildfire that nearly decimated large sections of the park.

 Evidence of the fire is clearly seen with the presence of blackened oaks and thick layers of hardened ash still found in the soil throughout this portion of the park. The canyon and its oaks are recovering in remarkable fashion and as many naturalists will attest, such events are beneficial to the long term health of this wilderness.

The hike to Red Rock Canyon is moderately easy and about half of it is in the shade. As you leave the Portola Parkway parking lot ($3.00 fee) the trail immediately leads you into a riparian environment that is surprisingly lush for what is generally considered a very dry wilderness. You'll immediately be struck with the sight of blackened oaks, now festooned with new, green leaves and fresh branches as the trees attempt to reclaim their former stateliness. Before a mile has been traveled, an oak flat welcomes you to take in the increasing canopy and the view of a cave on the east wall of the Borrego Canyon trail. Though inviting, I'd recommend skipping it since it is well protected by a thick, moist green moat of poison oak.

The trail continues northeasterly as it leaves the shady oaks through often dry sandy washes bordered by chaparral and low scrub. At about 2 miles, the Borrego Trail junctions with the Cattle Pond and Mustard Road trails. Watch the trail markers carefully to find the Red Rock trail that parallels Mustard Road. This single track trail is located just beyond a picnic table equipped rest area and easy to miss. If you come to the Billy Goat trail junction, you've gone too far.

Follow the narrow Red Rock trail as it continues north towards a number of sandstone cliffs found at the end of another shadeless sandy wash. Anticipate being a little wowed when the cliffs are encountered for the first time. It will be difficult to imagine that you're in the same county as the Real Housewives, Disneyland and vast expanses of bedroom communities, condos and strip malls.

Please be respectful of these fragile formations and don't climb the cliff walls. Take some photos, enjoy a handful of trailmix and pick up the trash left by the guy who visited an hour before you. This kind of hiking destination demands a little extra effort to protect and maintain. Once you've taken in the unique vibe of the place, return the way you came to your car or make a left at the Mustard Road trail junction to explore more of the wilderness park.

When I hike this fun trail, I'm reminded how fortunate I am to have such an interesting place right down the road a bit, just past the Walmart and Arco station. If you live in the area, don't miss it and if you've got visitors from out of town anxious to visit the land of the Mouse, convince them that Mickey will wait and bring them here first.

The links below will lead you to a trail map and to the OC Parks website relating to this park.  Also note the link to flickr pages of the album of my photos of the park.

Whiting Ranch Trail Map

OC Parks: Whiting Ranch

Whiting Ranch Photo Album; Flickr

Best Hike in Caspers Wilderness Park: "Nature Trail - Loskorn-West Ridge-Star Rise-Oak" Loop

My favorite hikes are not always long hikes. In fact, being a man of a certain age and fitness level, after about 12 miles, there better be something interesting to look at or some other payoff at mile 12.1 or I’m no longer a happy hiker. I suppose for me any hike longer than 15 miles moves the whole thing from being a “day hike” to either an overnight backpacking trip (nice) or a forced death march (not nice). Mostly, I like nice day hikes.

I’m also picky in choosing my favorite or repeated hikes. If I have a bad experience (didn’t bring enough water, trail was not maintained) or failed to see anything of even passing visual interest (long stretches of narrow trail through claustrophobic thickets) I’ll not give the trail another chance. One strike and you’re out, Mr. Hiking Trail.  So many hikes, so few days, etc.

So when I tell you that I’ve done this hike like five times in three years, you can trust that it’s a pretty nice trail. In fact, at Caspers Wilderness Park near San Juan Capistrano, it’s probably the nicest hike in the place.

As mentioned in an earlier post, Caspers is an 8,000 acre patch of Santa Ana Mountain wilderness that could be considered one of a handful of gems in the Orange County Parks crown. The park follows along the north-south bearing Bell and San Juan canyons and is bordered on the east by the Ortega Highway (CA 74) and to the west by the aptly named West Ridge. Okay, it’s probably got an official name, but I don’t know what it is and the park rangers knew what I was talking about when I mentioned it.

Today’s hike is one of my favorites as it provides a nice sampler of all the natural gifts that Caspers lists on its wilderness menu. It’s not got a proper name, but I call it the “3.5 Mile Nature Trail-West Ridge-Star Rise-Oak Trail Loop,” for obvious reasons. 

The park is about seven miles east of San Juan Capistrano, on the west side of CA 74. After pulling into the park, pay your entry fee to the lucky ranger working at the front gate, grab a map head up to the visitor’s center. Use the bathroom there and go inside to say hello to the nice volunteers working inside. Check out the exhibits and then be a mensch and buy something or leave a donation. Such parks are being negatively impacted by community financial shortfalls. Gate entry fees and the small portion given to parks via tax revenues barely keep the lights on.

From there, head back to the main park road and travel north to the parking lot across from the picturesque windmill and horse corral. Head north past the corral and adjoining equestrian facilities to find the Nature Trail. Continue northerly, crossing a cobble filled creek bed towards the oak and sycamore groves the park is known for. At the Dick Loskorn trail junction, turn left and begin the mild but heavy breathing inducing climb for almost a mile.

This portion of the hike is particularly beautiful as it hugs the ridge contours passing through pure white sandstone and white kaolin clay deposits. The white bluffs may remind you of formations found in more well known parks but on a much larger scale. The single track trail is narrow in places with steep drop offs, so pay attention and stop staring at the white bluffs so much.

The trail continues climbing until you reach the West Ridge trail. Turn right, (north) and follow the undulating wide fire road along the ridge catching superb views on either side. After about ¾ of a mile make a right (east) turn at the Star Rise trail junction. The trail is pretty steep as it descends into Bell Canyon and is notorious for being washed out after heavy rains. Like the West Ridge trail, there isn’t much shade and on warm sunny days, so be sure to wear a hat and bring plenty of water.

In about ½ mile you’ll make a right (south) turn onto the Oak trail. This incredibly beautiful section of the hike brings you under the cooling shade of ancient, twisted oaks and expansive sycamores. Do yourself a favor and stop for a short rest under any of these beauties to take in how magnificent they are. If you brought a snack, enjoy it here. Experiencing such trees is one of the joys of the natural world so take some time to mentally record it all.

Once you’ve emerged from this state of oneness with the oaks and you’ve picked up some of the trash left by less conscientious hikers, continue south towards the parking area, following any number of paths you’ll find as you leave the oak and sycamore forest. If you feel like taking in another mile or two, bear south to find the Pinhead Peak trail. It’s an up-and-back 1.5 mile walk to the summit of a 662’ elevation viewpoint that gives a nice panorama of coastal canyons, chaparral and alluvial plains. If you ignore the smattering of structures and roads seen in the distance, you might be able to glimpse what California looked like 100 years ago, especially if you squint a little.

Caspers offers many other hiking options, all of them having a particular charm or quality that makes them worth the sweat. But if you've never been before, when you visit the park don't miss this moderately easy loop hike. And hug an oak while you're there.  They appreciate the love.

For more information:

OC Parks: Caspers

Caspers WP Brochure

Caspers Trail Map

Caspers Photo Set

Community Wilderness Parks Rating: Caspers Wilderness Park

Not all community wilderness parks are created equal. All may afford city dwellers the opportunity to feel dirt beneath their heels and see a horizon filled with trees instead of cell towers but some do it better than others.  Having visited a few, I pondered a way to rate the parks on some sort of sliding scale. I wanted a system that could be applied to just about any community wilderness park so I just made this one up...like just now. The perfect community wilderness park (CWP) scores a 10 on all factors on a “CWP Rating System™.”  It's purely subjective, based on limited personal observation and subject to revision with each blog update.

The current CWP Rating System is comprised of six factors. Each factor is rated 1 to 10, 5 being average and 10 being highest. I tend to be a bit harsh in my ratings, so a “5” is not a bad score at all.

Ease of Access: The park is easy to find, can be reached without having to use granny low or a four-wheeled drive vehicle. Extra consideration is given for those accessible by bicycle.

Human Infrastructure and Facilities: Fresh running water, flush toilets, picnic benches, BBQ stoves, campgrounds, showers, trash and recycled waste receptacles, etc. Extra points for a visitor center and actual human staff or park rangers available.

Trails: Mixed use as well as single-track hiking-only trails of varying lengths and difficulty. Trails are well marked, maintained and actually lead to someplace interesting. Extra points for loops or connecting trails that allow for a 12+ mile hike.

“Remote-ness”: Can a visitor get far enough away from highway sounds and views of anything resembling community, i.e. housing developments, or other manmade structures that are not part of the park facilities? Extra points for parks in which this can happen relatively quickly.

Natural Beauty: Are the views, trees, geology, unique terrain, wildlife, meadows, ridge lines, canyons, streams, waterfalls, ponds and lakes, beaches or other natural features just beautiful? Extra points for natural aspects that are unique or special to the area.

Bonus Points: Easily obtainable trail maps, size of park, friendly volunteers, historical significance, special community events, portions of the park are wheelchair friendly, nicely paved roads, adequate parking and other things that make the visit pleasant.

It’s important to understand that this system is not really suited for large national parks or forests, backcountry destinations or other true “wilderness areas,” but those greenbelt areas that a community sets aside for residents and visitors to get a little outdoor time. Most of the parks have a certain family-friendly quotient, but all should afford even the solitary visitor the opportunity to escape for a few hours and to think of nothing more important than returning to a trailhead before total darkness sets in.

Let’s see how one of my favorite wilderness parks scores on the CWP Rating System. The first is Caspers Wilderness Park. I’ll feature it in a “favorite trail” review soon.

Located just east of San Juan Capistrano, California, Caspers Wilderness Park is part of the Orange County park system and is considered by many visitors to be the best of its kind in the OC.

Ease of Access: 9
The park is easily reached via California Hwy 74, aka the Ortega Highway. Bicyclists are often seen on Hwy 74 though many do not venture too many miles east of the park due to the highway’s infamous notoriety for frequent motorcycle accidents.

Human Infrastructure and Facilities: 7
The park is equipped with a nice visitor’s center, flush toilets, camping spots, a ranger-staffed front gate, good parking and paved intra-park roadways but troubled with frequent running water stoppages for multiple reasons.

Trails: 8
Many trails intersect and run the length of the park providing hiking, biking and riding adventures for trail users of all ages and skill levels. Some trails include sections near the Ortega Highway which makes for a reduced outdoor experience.

Remote-ness: 7
Because of its location, it’s a simple matter to get away from highway sounds and sights. However, some of the views along the upper ridges unfortunately include small enclaves of expensive homes and ranches.

Natural Beauty: 8
Caspers scores pretty high here. The tortuous and ancient oaks, spreading sycamores, relatively abundant wild critters and sometimes interesting geology (i.e. white sandstone bluffs and alluvial plain feeder valleys) gives the park visitor healthy dose of true wildness. The park is bordered by a number of ridges providing a variety of natural settings such as soft meadows, rocky steam beds, darkly shaded canyons and bare ridgelines.

Bonus Points: 6
“Adventure Day” and a number of other activities occur at the park offering families a nice outdoor experience. The park has good facilities for horses, including pipe corrals and watering troughs. Parking is more than adequate and the volunteers here are helpful and friendly.

Total Subjective and Irrelevant CWP Rating System Score: 45 out of a maximum of 60.

Caspers is one of my favorite, nearby default wilderness areas. I fell in love with the place immediately and find myself returning many times a year.

Next time, I’ll review the West Ridge to Oak Trail Loop, a sweet trail that always pleases when visiting Caspers.

For more information please visit the sites below:

Caspers Information: OC Parks

Caspers WP Trail Map
 
Caspers WP Photo Set